REVIEW: This head chef really cuts the mustard

You will find mustard in most kitchens.
Craig and Carlo at CrouchersCraig and Carlo at Crouchers
Craig and Carlo at Crouchers

But only Crouchers has Craig Mustard in theirs - and this head chef is as keen as his name suggests.

Not just that, he’s hugely talented. A culinary genius who has further sealed the restaurant’s reputation as one of the best places to dine in the South.

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He’s just 27 - but the meals he and his team are plating up are simply superb.

Wonderful Beef WellingtonWonderful Beef Wellington
Wonderful Beef Wellington

They combine classic tradition with a real sense of creativity and imagination.

Take his starters.

The sea scallops were sauteed to perfection. It’s so easy to overcook by a few seconds and turn them to rubber. Not here. And the accompanying cauliflower puree, purslane and split lemon dressing added texture as well as cutting through the flavours.

The mains embrace every taste.

Cock a hoop with the coq au vinCock a hoop with the coq au vin
Cock a hoop with the coq au vin

But how good to see Beef Wellington there. Too many restaurants plump for steak without the complexity that this dish demands.

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This Wellington had been given a neat contemporary twist too, with the fillet wrapped in Parma ham, chive pancake and mushroom duxelle.

My wife chose the coq au vin. Again, it’s a dish that appears less frequently than it once did.

But this was an upgrade and some. The boulangere potatoes and truffled carrot puree complimented the flavours.

Cinnamon creme brûléeCinnamon creme brûlée
Cinnamon creme brûlée

We had already heard of the impressive reputation of the ‘pork three ways’ and the pan fried breast of duck but didn’t sample on this visit.

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The plates aren’t merely mini-masterpieces - they are hugely generous in their serving sizes.

By the time we reached dessert we were almost full.

But who could resist the cinnamon creme brûlée with green apple sorbet or the Earl Grey panacotta with milk foam and vanilla madelline?

Stunning scallopsStunning scallops
Stunning scallops

These were more conservative in size - thankfully! - but were nothing short of a super smooth and creamy triumph.

Restaurants, of course, are a team effort.

Front of house is nothing without a great kitchen - and equally the best dishes served badly will always fail to please.

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So what a great team there is at Crouchers led by restaurant manager Carlo.

Warm, welcoming and full of Italian charm.

He was supported by Peter and Cameron - two young men who could not have done more to make us feel at home.

Part of the restaurantPart of the restaurant
Part of the restaurant

Crouchers has a sense of the retro in its huge lampshades and elements of its decor. There is tradition too in its oak beamed vaulted ceilings.

The food itself captures the essence of this glance back - then drives the vision forward with a confidence and quality which is sadly all too rare.

We visited to review. We will return to relax.

A great venue that deserves a repeat visit.

Factfile

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Characterful oak-beamed restaurant with views over open countryside

Award winning Cuisine, 2 AA Rosettes for food excellence

Local ingredients and seasonal dishes

Open to the public for lunch and dinner

Private dining for up to 22 guests in the conservatory and garden room

Open for functions and parties for up to 110 guests

A la carte menu for lunch and dinner, from £15.50 for two courses

Sunday lunch a speciality £20.50 for two courses and £26.50 for three courses

Crouchers Restaurant, Bar and Hotel

Birdham Road, Chichester

West Sussex PO20 7EH

Tel: +44(0)1243 784995

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